Home Owners Insurance and Banned Dog Breeds-There Is HOPE!!

This is not something new, however, it may not be well known and I am here to help!

As an insurance professional and aspiring dog trainer, I know this is an important issue to many dog owners, and should be for insurance agents as well.  If you own one of the breeds that insurance companies feel is high-risk, you may not be able to get a policy from them, have your policy cancelled, non-renewed, or end up paying higher rates.  There are a few that may write you a policy but not cover anything dog related.

The following is a list of breeds that are banned or deemed high-risk by insurance companies:

Akita
Boerboel
Chow
Dobermans
German Shepherds
Mastiff
American Bandogge Mastiff
Neopolitan Mastiff
Pit Bull
American Staffordshire Terrier
English Bull Terrier
Presa Canario
Rottweiler
Wolf Hybrid
Mixes of the above breeds

Unfortunately, these dogs have a bad reputation and, appropriate or not, when one of these dogs makes a mistake, it is a much bigger deal than when someone's nasty little chihuahua bites a child.  Insurance companies pay out big money when this happens and because of this, it becomes a risk they want to avoid. This is where owners say, "Why should I pay the price of having to pay more, or even not be able to find insurance, because of the actions of other peoples' dogs? My dog is one of the most well behaved dogs around!!"

Well, apparently one insurance company heard the dismay of the owners of these dogs and took the time to do something about it.  Allied Insurance is one of the few companies that, in most states, will allow an owner to prove that their dog is a good dog.  By proving that your dog has no previous bite history and having the dog earn their AKC Canine Good Citizen Certificate, your dog  can be considered acceptable and the homeowner can get a great Homeowner's Insurance policy that will not exclude dog bites, should that happen.  Keep in mind that all insurance policies are subject to underwriting and every state regulates insurance independently.  Not all insurance agents may know about this loop hole, so ask them to call their underwriter if they are not sure if it is available in your area.

Find out more about Allied!

So, now you are thinking, "How does my dog get a AKC Canine Good Citizen Certificate, he is not even purebred?"  No papers are needed to earn this certificate!  All mixes, sizes, shapes and colors are eligible to try!! The test is inexpensive at around $25. Dogs need to demonstrate the following 10 skills, per the AKC guidelines:

AKC Training/Testing: CGC Test Items

Before taking the Canine Good Citizen test, owners will sign the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge. We believe that responsible dog ownership is a key part of the CGC concept and by signing the pledge, owners agree to take care of their dog's health needs, safety, exercise, training and quality of life. Owners also agree to show responsibility by doing things such as cleaning up after their dogs in public places and never letting dogs infringe on the rights of others.
After signing the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge, owners and their dogs are ready to take the CGC Test. Items on the Canine Good Citizen Test include:
Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness.
Test 2: Sitting politely for petting
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.
Test 3: Appearance and grooming
This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it, and give encouragement throughout.
Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)
This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.
Test 5: Walking through a crowd
This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.
Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place
This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down, and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test, the dog's leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler's commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.
Test 7: Coming when called
This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to "stay" or "wait" or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog.
Test 8: Reaction to another dog
This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.
Test 9: Reaction to distraction
This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise.
Test 10: Supervised separation
This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g, "there, there, it's alright").
(This is from AKC's webpage and more info may be found at: http://www.akc.org/events/cgc/training_testing.cfm)


One can see why being able to pass this test may make a dog a more acceptable risk to an insurance company.  It takes a calm, confident, well trained dog to do this and ANY breed can pass this test with flying colors if the owner takes the time to train their dog.  Don't worry if your dog is not there yet because that can be changed with time and effort.  Find a professional trainer in your area and sign up for classes. Yes, it will cost money but you will save money in the end by paying less on your insurance and having better coverage.  More importantly, you will have a well trained family pet that will be around much longer because they are calm, confident and obedient!

Happy Training!

Throwback Thursday-Tell us about the first animals you trained!

Hello everyone!

Happy Thursday.  I hope everyone has had a great week so far!

No quote of the day today, so though we would do something new and hopefully fun.

Do you remember the first animal you trained? What was it and what did you teach it?

My first was our Doberman named Omen and I was probably about 10.  I remember teaching her to sit, down, shake and sit pretty. We also had a tabbycat named Bluegrass at the same time and she learned to sit pretty and wave as well.

Please share!

Happy Training!

Quote of the day

From a Linked in group discussion about what frustrate trainers and roadblocks they run into with training.  The number one answer was OWNERS.

Stephen Salkin summed it up best with his statement:

 " People don't realize that when they go to a class they are the student and the dog is the paper on which you write."

People do not learn new skills in one class, why would you expect your dog to?

Muzzles as a training tool~~~Let's Discuss!!

I am actively trying to learn as much as possible and some of this involves social media. I am trying to learn and, hopefully, educate  in regards to dog training. On this past Saturday, July 6th, a discussion blew up on Facebook on a certain well known TV trainers page.  He posted an article about reasons you may want to consider a muzzle for your dog.  Wow, did that ever set off a huge debate!!!  I think you may know my feelings on this in regards to using the appropriate training tools for each dog, and I will elaborate further shortly on my blog, but I would like to hear your opinions. 
Please share how you feel, and if possible, why you feel that way.  Please refrain from bashing others views, and if you have never had a dog that needed one, count your blessings!

 

Luca~aka~Annabell Lector

Quote of the day

We are working with a great trainer to learn to teach our dog schutzhund.  We were discussing various training methods and beliefs and he said:

"The only thing 2 trainers will ever agree on is that the 3rd is doing it wrong!!"

There are definitely some, okay, who am I kidding, there are many, who believe their way is the only way.  I am more of the type that believes I can learn something from everyone.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?  I think we can find some basic rules that cross training methodologies.....

more to come!

It is National Dog Bite Prevention Week---

One way to prevent bites is to know how to read your dogs body language and know what they are saying.

Cute Introduction to reading basic canine body language

IMHO: Training tools--The Collar Debate Ever Rages On...

In my humble opinion, there are many, many tools that you can use for training dogs and animals in general.  Every one of them has a proper and improper use and all can be used in an appropriate or an abusive manner.  I posted an article about collar and harnesses by Dr. Sophia Yin today and I recommend that you take a look at this for a more in depth look at the types as well us their uses and misuses.

Here is a quick link to the article:  http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/which-types-of-collars-and-harnesses-are-safe-for-your-dog

Things to think about when selecting your training tools:

1.  What are my dog training goals? If you have a little apartment dog that occasionally goes on walks, your goals are probably much different than those of a person who has a large breed dog that goes hiking or a dog that will be competing in obedience, agility or nose work.
2.  What breed of dog do you have?  Different breeds may need different types of reinforcement and encouragement and this should be reflected in the type of training tools you select.
3.  What is your dog's body type?  Short necked, smooshed face dogs, which are more prone to breathing problems and even collapsing tracheas need to not have a choke chain used and may want to consider a prong collar instead, if this type of tool is needed.  Dr. Yin recommends a front attaching type of harness for these types of dogs, and for many dogs in general.  Most pet stores have staff that will assist you in finding the right harness for your pooch and I recommend you take advantage of this to avoid an ill-fitting or loose harness.
4. What tool are YOU comfortable using?  It is important that you be compfortable with the tool you are using.  It does not do your dog any good if you have a prong collar and every time you pop them for correction with it, you feel the need to pet and apologize for doing so.  Talk about conflicting information!
Along these same lines, try to research the breed traits of the dog you are considering before purchasing.  Find out about their intelligence and trainability so you will be aware of what training may look like for that dog.  A first time dog owner may not want to be getting a breed that tends to be strong willed and requires an experienced trainer.   Smart dogs pick up quickly on who is confident and in charge and who is not.  I just finished observing an obedience class and one of the owners had a very handsome, imported German Shepard pup.  I have to wonder if he was her first dog, or maybe just not the right dog for her because he ignored her commands through most of the class.  He barked CONSTANTLY and she would tell him no...while petting him. Again, conflicting information -- the soft no with petting just reinforced the behavior.  The master trainer stepped in, with body language and a NO that actually sounded like he meant it, one quick pop on the soft buckle collar (it may have been a martingale type), and no more barking.   The point is that this dog needs an owner that can be more firm in her directions, both positive and negative, and she had a very difficult time providing that.  Kudos to her for trying to do the training class, but you also have to be willing to listen to the trainer in order to get anything out of the class.  Our master trainer sits down first class and tells everyone point blank what is going to be learned and his training philosophy.  We all need to find tools that fit with our beliefs, then find a class (tool) that we are comfortable with.

5.  What is your training philosophy? Yes, you can train many dogs with a simple buckle collar and treats.  It will take you much longer and some dogs may decide not to listen if they do not feel you have a treat that is not worth listening to you for.  Running around chasing bunnies and cats tends to be more interesting to some dogs than the DOWN~STAY and that little treat you have.  The "NO!", even if firmly given, may never over-ride a dog's strong prey drive, no matter how many treats you offer or clicks on the clicker you give.  If you are not sure what your training philosophy is, or if what you are doing is not working, explore other methods and training styles with an open mind.  You may end up following one style or you may create a style all your own with a few tools from a variety of methods.

My ever evolving training philosophy is one that involves a mix of tools and methods.   I use positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement and even punishment if the situation warrants it.  Methods and
tools used depend on the dog, what is being taught, and where they are in learning a particular skill.   Although both of our dogs are sweet and loving and eager to please, the 10 month old giant breed BRT /mastiff mix requires a much firmer correction than the Aussie mix.  Our training methods vary for each of our dogs due to age, breed, and individual temperament.   I use buckle collars, choke collars,  pinch collars and even an electric collar when needed.  I also praise, give treats and reward the little steps in the right direction.  I prefer to enable success by breaking down the behavior I am seeking and rewarding little successes. However, I will not hesitate to give a correction  when needed at the level needed.

Training tools and methods tend to be controversial and, unfortunately, people can get carried away defending their beliefs.  In my humble opinion, until you are asked, it is best to keep your views to yourself when you are out and about. I tend to find it rather annoying when a young trainer at one of the large pet stores gives me a dirty look because my 90lb dog is wearing a pinch collar --- and then proceeds to show me how my dog can sit by putting a treat above her head.  They do not know my dog, her history, her breed or her temperament and, by the way, she learned how to sit with treats and positive reinforcement a long time ago. Be open minded but stand up for your beliefs and be true to your inner trainer!

IMHO: The Key to successful dog training is.....

BEING CONSISTENT!!

In my humble opinion, the key to training animals or teaching humans is being consistent.  This may sound simple, and it really is, however, it encompasses a great many things:

1. Consistent command words: Animals do not do synonyms. No, stop it, QUIT and knock-it-off are all completely different to our dogs.  We know what we mean, they are clueless as to our intended message when we use different words.  Make sure everyone in the family knows and uses consistent command words.

2.  Consistent command SIGNALS: If you are using hand signals, or some type of body language for training your dog, and I highly recommend that you do, make sure it is the same signal every time.  Slight changes can have different meanings, especially since dogs communicate so much with body language.  If your dog already knows the verbal command, add a hand signal every time you say it and pretty soon, quicker than you would believe, they will be responding to the command from hand signals alone. Along the same lines, be aware of what your body is doing while giving commands as well, your body may be saying something that you do not intend to.

3.  Consistent training level expectations: If you are just starting off on teaching a command, set a goal that is appropriate for your dog's age, breed and training level.  Gradually increase your expectations as your dog meets their training goals. If they are having an issue, take a step back to basics and maybe try a different training method to "explain" what you want.  On the other end of the spectrum, don't lower your expectations just because you or your pooch are having a bad day.  Sometimes we may have to end a training session because of an issue but try to end it on a positive note with a success.  For example, if you are working on down-stay and puppy cannot make it a full 3 minutes, although they usually do, try doing 2 minute down~stay with a come command at the end and praise.  ---This assumes they know come really well.... so that we are ending on a positive note.   It also helps to try and figure out why they may have not listened--are they hurting or was it a bad case of the puppy wiggles??

4.  Consistent exercise: A tired pooch is one that is much less likely to get into trouble, and he is also more likely to be able to listen and focus during your training sessions.  You are crazy if you think your dog is going to be able to go from crate to obedience training without letting off some steam first.  We try to walk our dogs every morning about a mile and a half. They are let out for a quick romp at lunch and then we usually do an activity in the evening that involves training, exercise and socialization.  A weekend hike is a great way to get all of this done at the same time and we all have a blast.  Figure out what works for your furry family, but do get that exercise in some way.  It is good for you and your pooch.  If you do not already know, Meetup.com is a wonderful place to join groups of people with all kinds of mutual interests.  This is where we found our hiking with dogs group and it is a fabulous way to spend a weekend morning!

5.  Consistent rules: Our dogs need us to be the leader and set the rules.  They do not understand that a behavior is kinda okay in one place but not another.  It is either is or is not.  With our kids, we can tell them that it is okay to shoot straw wrappers at each other at a fast food joint but not at a nice sit down restaurant and they understand that.  That does not work for dogs quite as well. For example,  dogs don't really understand that invading one person's personal space by jumping on them may be okay but this other person it is not.   Set the rule and enforce it.  No means no, nothing else, not maybe and not kinda sorta.  

6. Consistent tone:  Let your dog know when they have done well and use your higher pitched praise voice and let them know "Good sit!", "Good down!", "Good dog!" It should be clear by your tone that they have done well.  Watch how quickly your dog responds to that happy, high pitched voice.  It really does not matter what you say but truly matters HOW you says it.  That takes us to the other side of the coin.  The stern NO voice.  Say "NO!" like you mean it- deeper low tone.  Keep these things in mind when you are giving commands as well. Come, especially when you are teaching the command, should be a happier tone--hey, party's over here, COME join me!  Stay on the other hand, tends to be given in a lower, stern tone--"Staaaaaaay!!

7. Consistent praise: Be sure to let your dog know when they have done well, especially as they are beginning. This is one area where, as your pooch learns the command, praise and paychecks (treats and affection) may become less frequent, but they should still be a consistent part of training.  The harder the behavior is for the dog to learn, the more you want to reward a step in the right direction and more frequently.   For example-a dog who is playing on a log lead may be more interested in playing with the stick they have found than listening to the COME command.  A high energy terrier may have a hard time with the DOWN~STAY, so more paychecks, more often.  Once they seem to have a basic understanding of the behavior, start expecting more before rewarding.  30 second SIT~STAY, 45 seconds, a minute....and eventually 3 minutes, then 5....and eventually your dog is doing the SIT~STAY like a pro.

8. Consistent socialization:  This is extremely important, especially for puppies.  Take every opportunity to take your pooch a variety of places, to see a variety of people, places and things.  Not once, not twice, but many times so they have a consistent exposures to the world.  This builds confidence and sociability and keeps them relaxed in a variety of situations.  Many dogs can learn obedience, and very quickly, but if they are missing this vital component, then what is the  point of having a vicious, frightened dog who can SIT~STAY really well?

9. Consistent expectations: Be consistent in setting goals and in giving your pooch the tools to meet those goals.  This may mean breaking a behavior down into parts and then gradually bringing those parts togther in a process called chaining.  I just posted a great article on my page about this by Gemini K-9 that I recommend you read.

That is all for today.  Work hard, discover your inner trainer and you too can have a dog where people say "Wow, I wish my dog could do that!"

The first few books we are reading and will be commenting on

Canine behavior is a facinating topic and how it relates to training makes it very valuable knowledge.  Below are a few of the books we are starting out with on our journey to becoming better trainers.  OF course, hands on experience is one of the better teachers, however, we want to increase our knowledge as much as possible, so hitting the books too.

I have been training dogs horses and even a few cats for most of my life.  My husband, George, is somewhat new to this but has been a very quick learner and shows the potential to be a great teacher and trainer.  We both sincerely believe that you can never stop learning and everyone has soemthing to taeach you.  George and  I want to take this to a professional level and eventually train dogs and teach obedience at our own Oregon dog ranch. 

Recommended by our master trainer:

Toward the Ph.D. for dogs: Obedience training from novice through utility

by Robert J Martin

        -An older book with some possible outdated techniques, however, there is a great deal to be learned from this book about what is needed for teaching and competing in a variety of dog competitions.

 

 

 

The following 3 from Patricia McConnell, Ph.D. :

 

The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs

 

How to be Leader of the Pack, and have your dogs love you for it!

 

The Cautious Canine: How to Help Dogs Conquer Their Fears

 

The Dog's Mind-Understanding Your Dog's Behavior by Bruce Fogle, D.V.M.

 

Recommended Reading per Academy of Veterinary Behavior Technicians

There is a variety of reading that we are going to be using to supplement our hands-on interning with a master dog trainer.  Below is a list that veterinary technicians are strongly suggested to read if they want to specialize in behavior. 

If you are a vet tech interested in this specialty, for more information, please see:

http://www.avbt.net/index.shtml

AVBT Reading List

This is a recommended list and will periodically be updated with additional material.
Abnormal behavior- multiple species (also see books in normal and species specific list)

Landsberg, G., Hunthausen, W., & Ackerman, L. (2003). Handboo of Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat (2nd ed.). Philadelphia, PA: Saunders.
Hetts, S. Pet behavior protocols: What to say, what to do, when to refer. Lakewood, CO: AAHA Press.
Horwitz, D.F., & Neilson, J.C. (2007). Blackwell’s five minute veterinary consult clinical companion: Canine and feline behavior. Ames, IA: Blackwell.

Animal cognition

Balda, R.P., Pepperberg,I.M., & Kamil, A.C. (Eds.) (1998). Animal cognition in nature: The Convergence of psychology and biology in laboratory and field. San Diego, CA: Academic Press.
Bekoff, M., & Jamieson, D.(Eds.) (1996). Readings in animal cognition. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.
Miklosi, A. (2007). Dog evolution, behaviour, and cognition. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.

Behavior modification & animal handling techniques

McGreevy, P.D., & Boakes, R.A. (2007). Carrots & sticks: Principles of animal behavior training. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
Yin, S. (2009). Low stress handling, restraint & behavior modification of dogs & cats: Techniques for developing patients who love their visits. Davis, CA: CattleDog Publishing.

Domestication

Coppinger, R., & Coppinger, L. (2001). Dogs: A statling new understanding of canine origin, behavior, and evolution. New York, NY: Scribner.
Hemmer, H. (Ed.) (1990). Domestication: The Decline of environmental appreciation. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press. (translated from German by Neil Beckhaus)

Ethics & Welfare

Grandin, T. (2008). Humane livestock handling: Understanding livestock behavior and building facilities for healthier animals. North Adams, MA: Storey.
Grandin, T., & Johnson, C. (2005). Animals in translation: Using the mysteries of autism to decode animal behavior. New York, NY: Scribner.
Price, G., Clark, K. Ritchie, M. & Vong, C (Eds.) (2006). Building the veterinary behavior team: The Basics. Society of Veterinary Behavior Technicians.
Rollin, B.E. (2006). Introduction to Veterinary Medical Ethics: Theory and cases (2nd ed.). Ames, IA: Wiley-Blackwell.
Tannenbaum, J. (1995). Veterinary ethics: Animal welfare, client relations, competition and collegiality (2nd ed.). St Louis, MO: Mosby.
Waran, N. (Eds.) (2002). The Welfare of horses. Dordrecht, Netherlands: Kluwer Academic.
AVMA animal welfare policies

Grief counseling

Lagoni,L., Butler, C., & Hetts, S. (1994). The Human-Animal bond and grief. Philadelphia, PA: Saunders.
Stewart, M.E. (1999). Companion animal death: A comprehensive guide for veterinary practice. Woburn, MA: Butterworth-Heinemann.

Human animal bond

Grandin, T., & Johnson, C. (2009). Animals make us human. Orlando, FL: Houghton, Mifflin, & Harcort.
Olmert, M.D. (2009). Made for each other: The Biology of the human-animal bond. Cambridge, MA: Da Capo Press.
Serpell, J.A. (1996). In the company of animals: A study of human-animal relationships. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press (originally published in 1986 by Blackwell).

Interpersonal relationships

Gray, C., & Moffett, J. (2010). Handbook of veterinary communication skills. Ames, IA: Wiley-Blackwell.
Rivers, D. (2006). The Seven challenges workbook. Available free online.

Learning theory

Burch, M.R., & Bailey, J.S. (1999). How dogs learn. New York, NY, Howell Book House.
Donaldson, J. (2005). The Culture clash: A revolutionary new way to understand the relationship between humans and domestic dogs (2nd ed.). Berkley, CA: James & Kenneth.
Pryor, K. (2003). Don’t shoot the dog: The new art of teaching and training (3rd ed.).Gloucestershire, UK: Ringpress.
Reid, P.J. (1996). Excel-Erated learning: Explaining in plain English how dogs learn and the best way to teach them. Berkley, CA: James & Kenneth.

Neurochemistry & Neuro-psychopharmacology

Crowell-Davis, S.L. & Murray, T. (2005). Veterinary psychopharmacology. Ames, IA: Wiley-Blackwell.
Dodman, N.H., & Shuster, L. (1998). Psychopharmacology of animal behaviour disorders. Ames, IA: Wiley-Blackwell.
Schwartz, S. (2005). Psychoactive herbs in veterinary behavior medicine. Ames, IA: Wiley-Blackwell.

Normal development and behavior

Estep, D.Q., & Hetts, S.(2005). Raising a behaviorally healthy puppy. Littleton, CO: Animal Behavior Associates.
Grandin, T. (Ed.) (1998). Genetics and the behavior of domestic animals. San Diego, CA: Academic Press.
Houpt, K.A. (2004). Animal Behavior for Veterinarians and Animal Scientists (4th ed.). Ames, IA: Wiley-Blackwell.
Overall, K.L. (1997). Clinical behavioral medicine for dogs and cats. St Louis, MO: Mosby.
Scott, J.P., & Fuller, J.L. (1965). The Genetics and social behavior of the dog. Chicago, IL: University of Chicago Press.

Research methods

Dawkins, M.S. (2007). Observing animal behaviour: Design and analysis of quantitative controls. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
Martin, P., & Bateson, P. (2007). Measuring behaviour – An Introductory guide (3rd ed.). Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
Podberscek, A.L., Paul, E.S., & Serpell, J.A. (Eds.) (2000). Companion animals and us: Exploring the relationships between people and pets. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.

Service animals

Fine, A.H. (Ed) (2006). Handbook on animal-assisted therapy: Theoretical foundations and guidelines for practice (2nd ed.). San Diego, CA: Academic Press.

Species specific behavior

Bays, T.B., Lightfoot, T.L., Mayer, J. (2006). Exotic pet behavior: Birds, reptiles, and small mammals. Philadelphia, PA: Saunders.
Beaver, B.V. (2003). Feline behavior (2nd ed.). Philadelphia, PA: Saunders.
Beaver, B.V. (2008). Canine behavior: Insights and answers (2nd ed.). Philadelphia, PA: Saunders.
Luescher, A.U. (Eds) (2006). Manual of parrot behavior. Ames, IA: Blackwell.
McGreevy, P. (2004). Equine behaviour: A guide for veterinarians and equine scientists. Philadelphia, PA: Saunders.
Mills, D.S., & McDonnell, S.M. (Eds) (2005). The Domestic horse: Origins, development, & management of behaviour. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
Serpell, J. (Ed.) (1995). The Domestic dog: Its evolution, behavior and interactions with people. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.
Turner, D.C., & Bateson, P. (Eds.) (2000). The Domestic cat: the Biology of its behavior. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press.

List from:  2010 Academy of Veterinary Behavior Technicians — All Rights Reserved