Home Owners Insurance and Banned Dog Breeds-There Is HOPE!!

This is not something new, however, it may not be well known and I am here to help!

As an insurance professional and aspiring dog trainer, I know this is an important issue to many dog owners, and should be for insurance agents as well.  If you own one of the breeds that insurance companies feel is high-risk, you may not be able to get a policy from them, have your policy cancelled, non-renewed, or end up paying higher rates.  There are a few that may write you a policy but not cover anything dog related.

The following is a list of breeds that are banned or deemed high-risk by insurance companies:

Akita
Boerboel
Chow
Dobermans
German Shepherds
Mastiff
American Bandogge Mastiff
Neopolitan Mastiff
Pit Bull
American Staffordshire Terrier
English Bull Terrier
Presa Canario
Rottweiler
Wolf Hybrid
Mixes of the above breeds

Unfortunately, these dogs have a bad reputation and, appropriate or not, when one of these dogs makes a mistake, it is a much bigger deal than when someone's nasty little chihuahua bites a child.  Insurance companies pay out big money when this happens and because of this, it becomes a risk they want to avoid. This is where owners say, "Why should I pay the price of having to pay more, or even not be able to find insurance, because of the actions of other peoples' dogs? My dog is one of the most well behaved dogs around!!"

Well, apparently one insurance company heard the dismay of the owners of these dogs and took the time to do something about it.  Allied Insurance is one of the few companies that, in most states, will allow an owner to prove that their dog is a good dog.  By proving that your dog has no previous bite history and having the dog earn their AKC Canine Good Citizen Certificate, your dog  can be considered acceptable and the homeowner can get a great Homeowner's Insurance policy that will not exclude dog bites, should that happen.  Keep in mind that all insurance policies are subject to underwriting and every state regulates insurance independently.  Not all insurance agents may know about this loop hole, so ask them to call their underwriter if they are not sure if it is available in your area.

Find out more about Allied!

So, now you are thinking, "How does my dog get a AKC Canine Good Citizen Certificate, he is not even purebred?"  No papers are needed to earn this certificate!  All mixes, sizes, shapes and colors are eligible to try!! The test is inexpensive at around $25. Dogs need to demonstrate the following 10 skills, per the AKC guidelines:

AKC Training/Testing: CGC Test Items

Before taking the Canine Good Citizen test, owners will sign the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge. We believe that responsible dog ownership is a key part of the CGC concept and by signing the pledge, owners agree to take care of their dog's health needs, safety, exercise, training and quality of life. Owners also agree to show responsibility by doing things such as cleaning up after their dogs in public places and never letting dogs infringe on the rights of others.
After signing the Responsible Dog Owners Pledge, owners and their dogs are ready to take the CGC Test. Items on the Canine Good Citizen Test include:
Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness.
Test 2: Sitting politely for petting
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.
Test 3: Appearance and grooming
This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it, and give encouragement throughout.
Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)
This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.
Test 5: Walking through a crowd
This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.
Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place
This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down, and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test, the dog's leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler's commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.
Test 7: Coming when called
This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to "stay" or "wait" or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog.
Test 8: Reaction to another dog
This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.
Test 9: Reaction to distraction
This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise.
Test 10: Supervised separation
This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g, "there, there, it's alright").
(This is from AKC's webpage and more info may be found at: http://www.akc.org/events/cgc/training_testing.cfm)


One can see why being able to pass this test may make a dog a more acceptable risk to an insurance company.  It takes a calm, confident, well trained dog to do this and ANY breed can pass this test with flying colors if the owner takes the time to train their dog.  Don't worry if your dog is not there yet because that can be changed with time and effort.  Find a professional trainer in your area and sign up for classes. Yes, it will cost money but you will save money in the end by paying less on your insurance and having better coverage.  More importantly, you will have a well trained family pet that will be around much longer because they are calm, confident and obedient!

Happy Training!

Throwback Thursday-Tell us about the first animals you trained!

Hello everyone!

Happy Thursday.  I hope everyone has had a great week so far!

No quote of the day today, so though we would do something new and hopefully fun.

Do you remember the first animal you trained? What was it and what did you teach it?

My first was our Doberman named Omen and I was probably about 10.  I remember teaching her to sit, down, shake and sit pretty. We also had a tabbycat named Bluegrass at the same time and she learned to sit pretty and wave as well.

Please share!

Happy Training!

Quote of the day

From a Linked in group discussion about what frustrate trainers and roadblocks they run into with training.  The number one answer was OWNERS.

Stephen Salkin summed it up best with his statement:

 " People don't realize that when they go to a class they are the student and the dog is the paper on which you write."

People do not learn new skills in one class, why would you expect your dog to?

Muzzles as a training tool~~~Let's Discuss!!

I am actively trying to learn as much as possible and some of this involves social media. I am trying to learn and, hopefully, educate  in regards to dog training. On this past Saturday, July 6th, a discussion blew up on Facebook on a certain well known TV trainers page.  He posted an article about reasons you may want to consider a muzzle for your dog.  Wow, did that ever set off a huge debate!!!  I think you may know my feelings on this in regards to using the appropriate training tools for each dog, and I will elaborate further shortly on my blog, but I would like to hear your opinions. 
Please share how you feel, and if possible, why you feel that way.  Please refrain from bashing others views, and if you have never had a dog that needed one, count your blessings!

 

Luca~aka~Annabell Lector

Quote of the day

We are working with a great trainer to learn to teach our dog schutzhund.  We were discussing various training methods and beliefs and he said:

"The only thing 2 trainers will ever agree on is that the 3rd is doing it wrong!!"

There are definitely some, okay, who am I kidding, there are many, who believe their way is the only way.  I am more of the type that believes I can learn something from everyone.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?  I think we can find some basic rules that cross training methodologies.....

more to come!

It is National Dog Bite Prevention Week---

One way to prevent bites is to know how to read your dogs body language and know what they are saying.

Cute Introduction to reading basic canine body language

IMHO: Training tools--The Collar Debate Ever Rages On...

In my humble opinion, there are many, many tools that you can use for training dogs and animals in general.  Every one of them has a proper and improper use and all can be used in an appropriate or an abusive manner.  I posted an article about collar and harnesses by Dr. Sophia Yin today and I recommend that you take a look at this for a more in depth look at the types as well us their uses and misuses.

Here is a quick link to the article:  http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/which-types-of-collars-and-harnesses-are-safe-for-your-dog

Things to think about when selecting your training tools:

1.  What are my dog training goals? If you have a little apartment dog that occasionally goes on walks, your goals are probably much different than those of a person who has a large breed dog that goes hiking or a dog that will be competing in obedience, agility or nose work.
2.  What breed of dog do you have?  Different breeds may need different types of reinforcement and encouragement and this should be reflected in the type of training tools you select.
3.  What is your dog's body type?  Short necked, smooshed face dogs, which are more prone to breathing problems and even collapsing tracheas need to not have a choke chain used and may want to consider a prong collar instead, if this type of tool is needed.  Dr. Yin recommends a front attaching type of harness for these types of dogs, and for many dogs in general.  Most pet stores have staff that will assist you in finding the right harness for your pooch and I recommend you take advantage of this to avoid an ill-fitting or loose harness.
4. What tool are YOU comfortable using?  It is important that you be compfortable with the tool you are using.  It does not do your dog any good if you have a prong collar and every time you pop them for correction with it, you feel the need to pet and apologize for doing so.  Talk about conflicting information!
Along these same lines, try to research the breed traits of the dog you are considering before purchasing.  Find out about their intelligence and trainability so you will be aware of what training may look like for that dog.  A first time dog owner may not want to be getting a breed that tends to be strong willed and requires an experienced trainer.   Smart dogs pick up quickly on who is confident and in charge and who is not.  I just finished observing an obedience class and one of the owners had a very handsome, imported German Shepard pup.  I have to wonder if he was her first dog, or maybe just not the right dog for her because he ignored her commands through most of the class.  He barked CONSTANTLY and she would tell him no...while petting him. Again, conflicting information -- the soft no with petting just reinforced the behavior.  The master trainer stepped in, with body language and a NO that actually sounded like he meant it, one quick pop on the soft buckle collar (it may have been a martingale type), and no more barking.   The point is that this dog needs an owner that can be more firm in her directions, both positive and negative, and she had a very difficult time providing that.  Kudos to her for trying to do the training class, but you also have to be willing to listen to the trainer in order to get anything out of the class.  Our master trainer sits down first class and tells everyone point blank what is going to be learned and his training philosophy.  We all need to find tools that fit with our beliefs, then find a class (tool) that we are comfortable with.

5.  What is your training philosophy? Yes, you can train many dogs with a simple buckle collar and treats.  It will take you much longer and some dogs may decide not to listen if they do not feel you have a treat that is not worth listening to you for.  Running around chasing bunnies and cats tends to be more interesting to some dogs than the DOWN~STAY and that little treat you have.  The "NO!", even if firmly given, may never over-ride a dog's strong prey drive, no matter how many treats you offer or clicks on the clicker you give.  If you are not sure what your training philosophy is, or if what you are doing is not working, explore other methods and training styles with an open mind.  You may end up following one style or you may create a style all your own with a few tools from a variety of methods.

My ever evolving training philosophy is one that involves a mix of tools and methods.   I use positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement and even punishment if the situation warrants it.  Methods and
tools used depend on the dog, what is being taught, and where they are in learning a particular skill.   Although both of our dogs are sweet and loving and eager to please, the 10 month old giant breed BRT /mastiff mix requires a much firmer correction than the Aussie mix.  Our training methods vary for each of our dogs due to age, breed, and individual temperament.   I use buckle collars, choke collars,  pinch collars and even an electric collar when needed.  I also praise, give treats and reward the little steps in the right direction.  I prefer to enable success by breaking down the behavior I am seeking and rewarding little successes. However, I will not hesitate to give a correction  when needed at the level needed.

Training tools and methods tend to be controversial and, unfortunately, people can get carried away defending their beliefs.  In my humble opinion, until you are asked, it is best to keep your views to yourself when you are out and about. I tend to find it rather annoying when a young trainer at one of the large pet stores gives me a dirty look because my 90lb dog is wearing a pinch collar --- and then proceeds to show me how my dog can sit by putting a treat above her head.  They do not know my dog, her history, her breed or her temperament and, by the way, she learned how to sit with treats and positive reinforcement a long time ago. Be open minded but stand up for your beliefs and be true to your inner trainer!